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Céline Argente grew up in the Arts et Métiers district and lives there still. She shares an insider’s view.
Looking south down the rue Beaubourg outside Sylvine Fleurs, you first catch a glimpse of the red and blue funnels of the Pompidou Centre and, further in the distance and just across the Seine, the iconic towers of Notre-Dame.
The Arts et Métiers location of the popular flower shop, whose merchandise spills colourfully out onto the street in front, has served it well, not least as the quartier has become increasingly gentrified in recent years. What’s more, the shop’s owner, 33-year-old Céline Argente, was not long ago appointed the florist of Notre-Dame itself. If it didn’t sound irreverent, you’d almost call it the best gig in town.
Céline recently spoke to us about her love of flowers and flamenco and why, despite the fact that she doesn’t like the métro, she’ll never leave Paris.
When did you first decide you wanted to be a florist?
I am a florist born and bred! My mother opened this shop – and we keep her name over the door – and I took over about seven years ago. I grew up here too, in a flat overlooking the Arts et Métiers junction. From the window I could see the original cast of the Statue of Liberty in the local museum.
What changes have you made since you took over the shop?
I think I have given it my own identity. We have a lively, some might say noisy team working here and the atmosphere is happy-go-lucky. I have cleared out the basement too and started flower-arranging classes and, on some nights, we host flamenco lessons, which is a passion of mine.
How did your work for Notre-Dame come about?
I’ve known the people who were previously the cathedral’s florists for 30 years. First they asked me to help them out and then, on their recommendation, I was invited to take over. The first time I did some flowers was for Christmas 2012, working alongside the former florists. Last Christmas was my first year in charge and the special honour was to decorate the Nativity crèche.
You mentioned that you have lived in Arts et Métiers all your life. Has the quartier changed noticeably over the years?
One way to judge that would simply be by telling you what flowers we are selling and who our clients are. My mother did a lot of weddings and birthdays and the like. Now a lot of galleries and fashion companies have moved in and our clients are much younger than they used to be. They want more luxury blooms and speciality flowers, like orchids, and old-style roses that are popular with perfumiers.
So Arts et Métiers is going up in the world?
It depends what you mean by going up in the world! Certainly when my mother opened here in 1968 it was a decidedly working class area. Now it’s becoming bobo [meaning “bourgeois bohemian,” a reference to the trendy, somewhat alternative, but also decidedly affluent crowd that increasingly populates the area]. A few doors away they have even opened an organic supermarket called Naturalia, something pretty unthinkable a decade ago, and there’s the digital arts and modern music showcase, the Gaîté Lyrique, which opened in 2010 I believe. The place is really lively and full of young people and also pensioners learning computer skills. They were even chosen for a recent Kylie Minogue unplugged show.
Can you tell us some of your favourite places to go when you are not working?
If I am going to eat or have a drink, I often head to the Centre de Danse du Marais. It is full of life thanks to their dance classes and there is a lovely restaurant in the courtyard. Great atmosphere! Music comes from the windows: Indian, Oriental, classical, all sorts. For years I have eaten at the North African restaurant Le 404 and, further afield, Le Petit Poucet in Place de Clichy, which is a revamped French brasserie.
Any other recommendations?
For a nightcap I will join the boys down at the local gay bar, Le Duplex. It’s one of the oldest gay bars in the Marais, with a friendly mixed crowd, and the space doubles as an avant-garde art gallery. When I am out walking with my little boy, Ange, we go local and head for the little square by the Musée de la Poupée, which is set in the middle of old Marais buildings. It’s a true oasis. For more of an excursion I really enjoy the Jardin des Plantes, for obvious reasons. It’s France’s number one botanical garden.
And for shopping?
I shop for vintage clothing at Gilda on rue du Temple. Another place that I rate is Rainbow Factory on rue St Martin: it’s a one stop accessory shop. Food shopping is another passion of mine: a couple of addresses see a lot of me. Mmmozza, which is a hole in the wall shop on rue de Bretagne, is one of them. Very tasty! Also the Épicerie de Bruno on rue Tiquetonne. The owner is a real foodie and stocks over 15 sorts of curry and always gives you recipes as well.
So Parisian born and bred and that’s the way it will stay?
Well, I do like to travel! My summers are spent in Spain in a little town outside Valencia, but I always love coming home. Paris is a great people city. There are anonymous areas like La Défense, the business area, and the super chic, super rich 16th, neither of which I care for. And I don’t like taking the Métro: I prefer to take the bus or walk. But, saying that, I’d never want to leave Paris: Paris is a wonderful city.
Céline’s Picks
Sylvine Fleurs
98 rue Beaubourg, 75003
Tel: 01 42 71 31 35
A great selection of well-priced flowers and plants, from simple narcissus to the most exotic orchids. Make sure you tell Céline we sent you.
Naturalia
84 rue Beaubourg, 75003
Tel: 01 42 74 40 03
Local branch of a popular chain of organic food shops. Plenty of vegan-friendly and gluten-free options and a nice range of personal care items. Bobo heaven, in other words.
Gaîté Lyrique
3bis rue Papin, 75003
Tel: 01 53 01 52 00
Innovative digital arts and modern music centre offering a range of workshops, concerts, film screenings, exhibitions, events for children, and more. There’s also a restaurant with organic options on the menu.
Centre de Danse du Marais
41 rue du Temple, 75004
Tel: 01 42 77 58 19
Lessons in at least 40 different dance disciplines are available here, from flamenco and belly-dancing, classical to hip-hop, beginners to advanced. The teachers are all professionals and many of them speak English, as do the friendly people at the reception desk.
Le 404
69 rue des Gravilliers, 75003
Tel: 01 42 74 57 81
A busy, atmospheric Moroccan restaurant where you might find yourself sharing a table (consider it part of the fun, not cause for complaint). The best couscous in Paris, according to some, and a good selection of Moroccan wines.
Le Petit Poucet
5 place de Clichy, 75017
Tel: 01 45 22 36 76
Popular, bustling brasserie in the classic French style and with a typically large menu. Recommended for a good-value breakfast (good value by Paris standards at least) and for brunch, but don’t expect particularly fast service at the busiest times of day.
Le Duplex
25 rue Michel le Comte, 75003
Tel: 01 42 72 80 86
Regulars say the slightly shabby interior of this friendly, long-established gay bar is part of its charm. The music is set at the right volume for intelligent conversation.
Jardin des Plantes
57 rue Cuvier, 75005
Tel: 01 40 79 56 01
Twenty-eight hectares of gardens dating back to the 17th century and right in the busy heart of the city. There are extensive greenhouses to visit on wet days and, for children, a small zoo, an echo of the days when the royal menagerie was housed here. Admission is free on weekdays.
Gilda
51 rue du Temple, 75004
Tel: 01 57 40 89 09
Vintage clothes (and reproductions of vintage clothes) from the Twenties to the Seventies, including wedding dresses. Prices begin at about 50€ an item.
Rainbow Factory
84 rue Saint-Martin, 75004
Tel: 01 48 87 55 00
A small shop with a huge stock of colourful bags, jewellery and accessories, some of them designed by the store’s owner, Corinne.
Mmmozza
57 rue de Bretagne, 75003
Tel: 01 42 71 82 98
Italian deli selling every type of mozzarella imaginable, as well as other cheeses, cold meats, and olive oil from Sicily. Sandwiches to eat in or take away.
Épicerie de Bruno
30 rue Tiquetonne, 75002
Tel: 01 53 40 87 33
A stylish shop selling hundreds of different spices and herbs, including such rarities as dried avocado leaves, as well as a wide variety of exotic rice and all sorts of salt.