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The village-like Butte-aux-Cailles is just south of the Place d’Italie in the 13th arrondissement. With its cobbled, winding streets, old houses and pretty squares, it remains one of Paris’s most charming neighbourhoods and some of the houses here have that Parisian rarity, a garden. There are some great, relatively inexpensive bars, restaurants and bistros in the area, some of them trendy enough to attract hip young professionals, as well as students venturing beyond the Latin Quarter. There’s also a lovely swimming pool complex on the place Paul-Verlaine.