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At the heart of the 9th arrondissement is the lovely district of Notre-Dame-de-Lorette. Like nearby Montmatre, back in the 19th century it was popular with struggling artists and writers looking for cheap lodgings. The neighbourhood retains a great deal of its bohemian atmosphere still, though the only bohemians you’ll find here now are the trendy bobos (bourgeois-bohemians) who appreciate the specialist food shops and cosy bistros that have opened up here and the charming apartments available in some of the older buildings. The area around the rue des Martyrs is now half jokingly referred to as SoPi (for South of Pigalle) and is particularly gentrified, though rents are still lower than they would be in Montmartre.
